After a smooth flight over Canada and Greenland, we arrived in Iceland at ten in the morning local time. The previous night had seen yellow weather warnings for high winds and heavy rains, but by the time we arrived it was clear blue skies with only the occasional puffy cloud. But while we left clear skies to arrive in clear skies, the temperature difference was dramatic – from 80 F in Seattle to 45F in Keflavik with a fiercely cold breeze. Having not found a convenient place to pull out jackets out of our luggage at the airport, it was a chilly walk to the rental car shuttle.

It was 11:30 by the time we got our rental car and figured out the dashboard controls, so we stopped at a bakery for some much needed coffee and snacks. Revived and enlivened, we set off on the 45 minute drive to Reykjavik. Although it was Saturday, the traffic was light. After many roundabouts and one wrong turn, we found a parking garage.

While we had read reviews that garages here are narrow, experiencing it is a different matter. Our rental car is a Kia hack back similar in size to a Prius, but even so I was very nervous trying to squeeze up the ramp! Fortunately we found a spot on the first level and didn’t need to venture further in.

The tourist area of Reykjavik is an eclectic collection of historic and artsy buildings bringing joy to what could otherwise be a drab gray concrete scene. Many buildings are brightly painted, either in solid colors or with vibrant murals. It is very pedestrian friendly, bustling with both locals and tourists as they enjoyed the warm-as-long-avoided-the-wind sun. While us tourists often wore multiple layers with down coats, some locals sported T-shirts.

After meandering through the neighborhoods, we visited Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran church, the largest church in Iceland and one of the tallest buildings in the country. Completed in 1986, it’s spire reaches 244 feet. Instead of stained glass the windows are clear, presenting a dramatic view of the sky outside and filling the sanctuary with bright light. There is an incredible organ that fills nearly the entire back of the church.

We checked into our hotel later in the afternoon. Built in 1965, Hotel Holt has a classical feel with a lovely cozy lobby and a lovely art collection displayed throughout. It is far enough removed from downtown to feel like you are in the neighborhoods, while still being within easy walking distance of the tourist district. We took a second walk after dinner to look around the neighborhood, and found more lovely buildings, a beautiful park, and more murals.

As I write this it is well after ten o’clock but I can still see a steady twilight light peeking through from behind the blackout curtains. Tomorrow we venture north to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula in what is likely to be considerably wetter weather than today.

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